Cottlesville Book Chapter 3

CHAPTER 3
LIVELIHOOD


    Routine Work for Men and Women During the Year

Men:
The men started in the spring and fished for all the summer.  If they were occupied in the inshore fishery the women would help to cure the fish.  Once the fishing season ended the men would go into the woods to cut flake longers, fire wood, timber for boats, and to pick buds to bark their nets with.  After this was done they would repair their gear and fit out the schooner.

No time would be lost for there was always much to do.   The fishery was not a success every year.  For example 1924 and 1925  were failures.  Some of the schooner skippers were Jim Philpott, Kenneth Rideout, Andrew Anstey, Hedley Rideout and Alpheous Rideout.


Women:
The women attended to the housework, cared for the children & looked after the drying fish while the men were out fishing.  They  helped in the entire curing process.  They helped prepared a small crop of vegetables to be stored for the  winter.  Women organized and catered to social gatherings for friends.  Of course cooking meals, washing the floors and cleaning clothes were everyday chores.

The fishermen's wive's lives were not easy because of the worry, work, and strain that went with it.  Early watery graves for some  men was not uncommon.


    Labrador Fishery


The year started in May when the fishermen "rigged out" the schooners for the summer voyage.  They went to the merchant and got a supply of food, most of the time on credit.  Then they sailed to  Labrador to fish.  If the season was a good one they might make two trips.  The fishermen would catch their fish mainly by two methods Trawl or Cod Trap.  Both are illustrated.

A.  Shoal or shore moorings
B.  Leader panel
C.  Lead sinkers
D.  Buoys
E.  Mooring
F.  Anchor
G.  Span line

The fish caught for each day was split, cleaned, salted, and stored in the boat.  This process continued until they had a load.  Then they came home and shipped their fish by means of the barter system.

Frank Philpott's first trip to Labrador took place in 1933 when he was at the age of thirteen.  The first cod-trap he saw was on the back of White Islands.  He helped the other four crew members who were James Philpott (his father), Ralph Philpott (his brother), Donald Flight and Steve Pelley.  He really enjoyed himself.  He said.  "There's nothing like the Labrador.  You knew your job, and every string of what you were going to do.  But really you would go because there was nothing else to do, but you would be getting your living while you were at it." 

Frank’s first summer they got 500 quintals of fish which was 100 quintal per man.  $1.50 per dried quintal.  By the time the expenses were paid there was nothing left.  Next year you would go again because you were glad to get the chance to go back.  You had no set time to get back ...trust the wind.  One time they were off Black Island for three days on their way home.  They couldn't tow in because they didn't have enough gas. 

When Frank got older he went down on the Labrador as skipper a couple times.  His first trip as a skipper  was in the "Motorola" (50 feet in length).  He took with him Lloyd Philpott (his brother) and Donald Flight and proceeded to Black Joe, Belle Isle.  They didn't wash their faces hands or  dishes because they didn't have fresh water (Belle Isle was a hard place to get it).  With the little bit of water they had they made peasoup. 

They left July fifth and were only gone twenty or more days.  They got 200 cantles of fish (jigged by three men).  They didn't eat or sleep much. 

His best trip started July 3 in the "Newstead" on a Friday morning.  By Sunday they had travelled to Green Head and started clearing away a lot of fish, which were as far as the eyes could see east or west.  Calvin Philpott went out with his long rubbers, threw ashore three or four fish at a time by the tails.  Lloyd Watkins used his jigger and pulled three or four ashore. Other men on the trip were Ronald Philpott (Frank Philpott's brother), Arthur Rideout, and Hardy Rideout.  They got 600 cantles of fish. There was no slack at all, night or day.  While splitting fish Ronald lost all his fingernails on one hand.  Their wrists and forearms were sore.  They caught about 20 lbs of salmon among the cod at 3¢ per  lb but they were difficult to sell.  They were back in twenty five days.

After getting home they had to unload the fish, carry it into the store, wash it out and dry it.  Women cured the fish.  To dry the fish it had to be laid out on flakes in the sun for at least three days.  It had to be collected and covered if it rained.  Finally it was carried to the merchants.



A Labrador Trip

It was a cool Monday morning in early June.  The sun was rising above the horizon.  The men would board the schooner while women and children lingered on the wharf.  It was a lonely feeling realizing that they would be in Labrador or at Belle Isle for three to twelve weeks.  Such heavy feelings had to be overcome by cracking a joke or two and creating laughter between the “goodbye”,   “have a good trip” and “don’t go on the wharf” remarks.  Some women cried and children were sad.  Before weighing anchor a piece of sweet cake and some syrup was shared by all the men.  If there wasn’t much wind a skiff would tow the schooner out between Cottle’s Island and Burnt Island as the sails were raised to catch the breeze of the southwest wind.  All hands would linger back aft to get the last glimpses of the women and children who were waving on the wharf and land.  Hopes and wishes were then expressed about the coming weeks.  The hope was to get back in three weeks instead of twelve.  As the day passed the men ate and talked as Black Island disappeared and the course was set for Cape Bauld.  (Some trips the vessels overnighted at Conche or Crouse).  The next day land appeared on the horizon and the many schooners around Belle Isle could be seen.  The hope was to get a berth at Belle Isle.  The schooner would anchor either in Black Joe on the eastern side or at Dark Tickle, (a better place) on the western side.  Some years they would go on to Labrador instead of stopping at Belle Isle.  The harbours there were better and fish berths were alongside of the schooner.  (There were nights during foul weather all hands had to get in the skiff for safety).  If there were no fish people would get fed up and the skipper had to reassure them.  The skipper kept them in good spirits.  If there was fish all hands were ready to get at it.  Fish was dipped from the trap to the skiff and then pronged to the schooner’s deck.  Men then cut the fish throats on the table, removed the contents of the stomach cavity and headed the fish on the table’s edge.  A good  splitter working against a wooden cleat on the table, could with two swift cuts of a knife, could keep soundbones airbourne on their journey over the schooner’s side and fish splashing in a cut off barrel.  A deck worker threw the drawbucket upside down overboard to add water to the fishing tub.  This tub would be replaced by another as the fish was washed and pronged in the schooner’s hold where it was packed in alternating layers of fish and salt.  The salter’s job was critical as he needed to know when enough salt had been added.  Sufficient hogsheads of salt would already be in the hold.  This process would continue until all the fish was salted away.  In the process, newer crew members had to be helped along by everyone.  Young men were eager to learn the trade.  Comments such as “pass the bucket”, “keep it moving”, “its moving too fast”, “boil the kettle” and “pass the steel” were customary.  If fish were plentiful, work continued until long after dark under the glow of the  lantern lights and torches with cod oil for fuel.  Tired and weary, everyone grabbed a bite to eat and dived into the bunk for two or three hours of sleep.  Then it was up again and the process continued until the schooner’s deck was in the water.  Once this occurred it was time to set sail for home.  If  fish were plentiful the only time a decent meal could be prepared was on Sunday when a much needed rest was taken.  If fish were easily gotten, the cook (if you were lucky enough to have one) worked alongside the remainder of the crew.  The rough grub like salt beef, potatoes, flour, baking powder, hardbread, salt pork, beans, sugar, butter, eggs, molasses, fresh gulls, fresh fish and salmon had to be eaten to nourish the body through the hard work.  On Sunday’s it could be enjoyed with some buns and pies.  Bath’s and showers were not taken nor clothes changed.  The handling of fish kept the hands clean.  In some cases hands were in hard shape with water pups, no fingernails and general wounds.  There was no time to be timid.  Work had to be done.  No wonder there was delight and joy as the anchors were weighed and sails   raised to set sail for home.  Storms were not welcome and head wind meant beating this way and that.  No wind dampened spirits and slowed the progress.  Regardless, when the harbour wharf of home came in view, everyone was on the bow and women and children could be seen on the wharf.  Instead of heaviness their was delight and real laughter, unless there was some bad news to receive which sometimes happened.  After a day or two the fish had to be unloaded, washed and put out to dry.(If the time of season permitted a second trip was made.)  Everyone helped in the next three or four weeks until the fish was cured and again loaded aborad the schooner and taken to the merchants in Morten’s Harbour or Twillingate.  There, it was hoped a winter’s supply of grub, salt and other necessities could be bartered for the fish.  Sometimes no money exchanged hands and usually the account only broke even.  Often al least the salt and grub could be taken care of.  Regardless of the outcome the next year was in everyone’s mind.  In later years the diesel replaced the sail, wireless messages could be sent and foods such as bacon and eggs became part of the diet.  Otherwise the story remained much the same.


    Stanley Smith

The "Stanley Smith" was one of Cottlesville's largest schooners.  It was built in 1902 by John Tulk of Fortune and powered by sails.  The 70 ton schooner was sold to  James Philpott in 1944 and under his leadership was rebuilt.  James then used the schooner in the Labrador fishery until 1953 when she drove ashore due to stormy weather.  In her lifetime the "Stanley Smith" had a total of 18-20 captains.






















Inshore Fishery

The inshore fishery was also a year round concern, it included the winter preparation of the boats and gear.  The difference between the two types of fisheries is that the inshore fishery boats were much smaller, the boats left in the morning, and returned in the evening.  The similarity of the two fisheries is that  fish would be caught with trawl or a cod trap. The curing for inshore fishery was done on the land and all family members would help in the process.  The fish was then shipped.  The fishermen received as low as $1.50 or as high as $4.00 per quintal according to the amount of fish they caught.  Most of the time they caught nothing only cod and herring.  Turbot was hardly sellable and was destroyed most of the time.  Catfish were no good and were discarded.  They didn't eat crab and couldn't sell it like they do today.  At one point in time they couldn't sell a lobster because hardly anyone wanted them, even though thousands could be jigged off the bottom.  The people who did like lobster could get a puntful to a time.  Since the lobsters were so plentiful there was no season set out for them.  In later years they sold lobsters to the factories owned by uncle Iki Barnes.  Later there were other factories.

The encyclopaedia of Newfoundland and Labrador is a very good condensed version of Newfoundland fishery and other information.  In 1800 only 21,975 people lived in Newfoundland.  To survive in Newfoundland, it was a major accomplishment.  People depended on the sea for a livelihood.  The Labrador fishery was needed to supplement the local fishery, which had its ups and downs.   Because of slow transportation fishermen  had to come to Cottlesville and stayed only for the summer on the outside coves of Cottle’s Island.  The Lockes, Forwards and Rideouts came from other larger Surrounding communities.  Before 1900 the original settlers came.  Most people fished with trawls, codtraps and hook and line from row boats with sails.  Some people worked in the woods in Bishop's Falls and Millertown.

Around 1900, motor boats or skiffs became permanent.  Engines  used were Acadia, Atlantic, Mianis, Hubbard, Palmer, Knox, Coaker, Bridgeporte, Lobsterman, Gideon, Wolverine and Latherope.  Until the 1960's schooners sailed to Labrador and fish was salted and dried or barrelled.  The diesel engine and 35-50ft. longliner with gill nets and seines then took over.  Fish was packaged and frozen in fish plants which provided work for people other than fisherpersons.  The outboard motor on 16 to 22 ft. boats dominated the inshore lobster fishery.

The fishery in Newfoundland had its highs and lows.  Lack of control, may have been the reason.  Fishermen unions and knowledgable fishermen have made great strides in taking control of the fishery.


Resources

Cutting of timber in this section has been so severe that villagers must go back one and one-half miles for firewood.  This seems a very short distance to any person accustomed to roads, but here no area is being left to recover and within that one and one-half mile radius trees are cut as soon as they reach two or three inches in diameter.  This excessive cutting prevents the trees reaching maturity and means that much of the reproduction is by layering, which tends to reduce the vigour of the forest.

Studies show it would be very difficult to establish a gravity water supply system at Cottle's Island unless artesian sources could be tapped.

This was a small fishing settlement, and 20-25 men were one time reported as employed by the large pulp companies.  The failure of the Labrador fishery had brought the figure this high.  The villagers said that even more men were likely to turn to the woods for employment.


    Industry in Cottlesville

Some of the people who have owned a store in Cottlesville are Edgar Anstey, Lewis King, Ena Anstey, Frank Philpott, Ewen Canning, Larry Philpott, Lewis Eveleigh, Elmo Pryor, Fred Flight, Minnie Pryor, Clayton Gillingham, Bertha Rideout, Abraham Horwood, Eliza Rideout, Annette King, Herman King, Lindy Rideout, Rodney Wheeler, Arthur King, Eric Snow, Graham King and Albert Whitten.

There were some Lobster Canning Factories owned by people of our community  they were Eli Anstey, Elihu Moores, Charlie King, Robert Pryor, Edgar Head, Iki Barnes and Lewis Eveleigh.

There was a Limestone Wharf in Cottlesville just inside Levi's Island near Pot Cove.

This community has a fine history of sawmills some of the owners were Andrew Anstey, Arthur Anstey (burnt), Otto Anstey, George Horwood, Ralph Philpott, Rex Philpott, Robert Pryor and Kenneth Rideout.


Factory Island

Lewis Eveleigh built a factory in 1943.  The plant was built in two sections, the first 55' by 40' and two stories high, the extension was 35' by 50' one story high.  It operated for 12 years.  The plant collected the fish and carried it to Botwood.  They also collected lobsters for 75¢ per 100, and then 10¢ each.  They barrelled mackerel, herring, cod britches and cod liver oil.  Mackerel fillets were sent to the United States, herring (brine cured) and cod liver oil were sent to the West Indies, cod britches were sent to Italy for bait for sardines.  This was quite a large operation, 6000 cases of lobsters were canned in one year, 48 cans per case, 16 ounces each.  15,000 barrels of mackerel and herring was processed in one season.  250 barrels of cod britches, at 225 pounds per barrel was sent to Italy in one season.  Herring was also sent to Russia, to the U.N.R.R (United Nations Relief Rehabilitation) to help restore the poor and needy countries after the war.  At peak productivity this factory employed up to 45 people, most of which were from Cottle’s Island.  This factory which was run by Notre Dame Bay Fisheries (N.D.B.F) was the founder of today's procedure of buying fish with cash, which replaced the barter system (took in - turn out).

There were 32 licensed herring processors besides N.D.B.F in Cottle’s Island.  They received $75.25 + 10% U.S. exchange, expenses were taken out of this for salt and barrels.


Breakwater Fisheries

The present fish plant (Breakwater Fisheries Ltd.) was reconstructed from Arthur King's fish collecting plant.  Arthur’s premises and plant interests were purchased by Randy Barnes of St. John's and Lemuel White of Newstead.  The business base of the new plant was founded in on site processing.  Initially this industry was named Bluewater Fisheries.  However a business already existed under this name and regulations required the Cottlesville company to select  a new name.  It was then renamed Breakwater Fisheries.

This  plant employs a large portion of the available labour in Cottlesville as well as many people from surrounding areas.  Fishermen sell species such as caplin, herring, mackerel, turbot, cod, lobster, crab, by catch species, and others to the plant.  The plant has started and grown in the era of the codfish moratorium developing new product and supplying new markets, reflecting  on the foresight of management.  The lion's share of product being processed at Breakwater Fisheries is purchased by the Japanese.  These people and their country have brought great economic wealth to our community.






   





The Economy

The early economy of Cottlesville was based on the Inshore Cod Fishery, the Labrador Fishery and the Lobster Fishery, including the running of the family-owned Lobster Factories (from three to seven between 1901 and 1921) in Cottle's Island in the early 1900's.  Following the failure of the Labrador Fishery in the 1920's lobster became the main catch, some mackerel, herring, salmon and cod were caught mainly for local consumption.  By the 1950's the lumber woods started in Grand Falls and Bishop Falls, with the building of the "Road to the Isles" (linking New World Island with the mainland), commuting to forestry jobs became a major source of income.  Sawmills operated intermittently in the communities from 1930.  In 1981 two sawmills were reported to be operating in the community, producing from 100,000 to 200,000 fbm each year for local markets.  The remaining labour force commuted to logging jobs in central Newfoundland or were employed in the fishery.  In 1981 the Cottlesville catch was stored in a cold storage shed and trucked to plants in Twillingate qv.


    Fish Processing

Since fishing was the main occupation in Cottlesville the fish would be caught, brought to shore and cleaned.  There were two ways in which fish were cured.  There was salt bulk, where the fish were split, cleaned, put in bulk, layered with salt and after a couple of weeks it was shipped to the merchants.  Another method of curing fish was where the fish would be brought to the shore, split, cleaned, washed and put out to dry.  If weather permitted it was put out again until it was dried completely then shipped to the merchants.


    Money - The Barter System

Years ago there was little if any money in the Newfoundland economy.  When the fishermen started out in the season they would go to the merchant and take out supplies for their voyage.  When the fishing season ended they would go back to the merchant and ship their fish.  The money received would be put on their account, used to pay off their spring debts, and to buy their winter supply.  If any money was left it remained on the fisherman's account and was used to buy anything they would need during the winter.  Some fishermen would choose to take their profits instead of leaving it on their accounts.


    Squids

Little is known about this peculiar Head-foot Mollusk.  However, it is a very valuable species to this area and can turn a quick buck.

To jig the squid, one needs a lot of patience and a lot of luck.  Squids usually jig when the water is "turning to rise" or just at sunrise or sunset.  However, they might jig anytime, or not jig at all, squids are just that unexplainable.  They reel the squids out of the water.  The jiggers are colourful with sharp needles which the squids, when ready, cling to.

When the squids were caught the fishermen had three choices.  They could sell them immediately, "green" or   "shuck" them which included removal the head and pip.  The third option was drying them which meant splitting of the squids and removal of the pips, eyes, and beak.  Then they’re hung  in the sun on the lines or flakes to dry.

When the squids were too plentiful to be all shipped "green", many had to be dumped.  However, in recent years squids were not so abundant and they were mostly dried because they would bring a higher return of money.  Some  years the squids have not come to land, this is not surprising because they are suspected of having a seven year cycle of return or are taken in deeper water by draggers.

    Killick

A simple device used to replace an anchor or grapnel.  It was homemade using a large rock, some wood and rope.  The people of Cottlesville used it because it was inexpensive to make and yet so useful.